2mm and this actually helps to ensure the first layer doesn't fuse together, so I recommend leaving this default or finding a way with your slier to reduce the amount of filament used on the first layer First Layer / Elephant Foot - Prusa has a setting for Elephant Foot Compensation.Perimeters - the more detailed your puzzle and smaller the pieces, the harder it will be to get them to show, I recommend reducing to 1 perimeter if things aren't looking right.Time to slice! Here are some things to keep in mind depending on your slicer. Now you have your puzzle shape that you can cut your puzzle design with. Shrink to the size you made note of earlier.Import into Tinkercad as large as you can (again for best detail).Enlarge (optional) to make sure you get good curves when you import it (I've noticed in the past that when you bring rounded/curved objects into Tinkercad, the smaller they are the more likely the smooth curve is lost so I enlarge things and that preserves the curve) - also make note of the size BEFORE enlarging to make sure you can resize it correctly later.Double check to make sure it is no longer a line and is now a path.

Click on the PATH menu at the top of the screen.Make sure you have selected your puzzle object.I am using Inkscape (Illustrator or another program should work as well) so these directions are specific to that program, but this should give you an idea. So, we need to use another program to do a little editing. In its current state, if you bring it in, it will likely look something like the first photo above because the lines are too small for the program to handle, not only that, but the lines are going to be too thin to print. Now that you have your SVG, we need to make the lines a little bigger before bringing it into Tinkercad. Alright, here is the big, important part of this tutorial.

Pixel puzzle eagle 3d